Gear Up: Getting the most bang, boom and crash, part 2

Part 2 of 2. If you missed Part 1, you can check it out here. 

Buy used.

I’ve always hated to be the first person to put a scratch, mark or dent on something. I think that’s why I’ll never buy a new car off the showroom floor. Especially in the case of drums and cymbals, you’ll end up paying way too much for a cymbal that’s going to be “used” after the first day anyway, so find somebody who has a well-taken-care-of item that you need, and get a good deal.

These days almost all retail stores have a decent collection of used gear that has been traded in (which we’ll talk about in just a second), which means that it’s probably in good condition, and the store may even offer a limited warranty. 

That being said, there are a few things I won’t buy used: sticks, heads and thrones. It’s too easy to abuse those things, and - especially in the case of sticks and heads - new is cheap enough that it’s not worth the savings to get it used. 

Trade for it.

If you’re like me, you have a special pile of gear that you never use, but you just can’t bring yourself to get rid of it. Well, it’s time. If you haven’t used it in practice or a performance in over a year, find somebody who has what you want and offer them a trade. I’m constantly finding things I want online or in stores that somebody bought and then found out that they didn’t like/need/want/use it, and your item might be a perfect fit for a trade. Barter groups are springing up all over the place, so check one out.

Also, as mentioned above, many stores will take your used gear in on trade for new stuff. This is an excellent way to decrease the price of what you need at the same time you’re getting rid of stuff you don’t.

Several years ago I won second place in a solo drumming competition. The prize was a 22” Swish Knocker. I was thrilled! That is, until I took it home and played it. I tried every which way to convince myself that it was a cymbal I was going to use, but six months later it was leaning against the wall in my studio gathering the proverbial (and literal) dust. So when my hardware bag died, I took the Swish into the drum shop and traded it straight across for a new, better bag that has been serving me ever since. 

Be patient.

More times than I care to admit I have purchased something that I needed, “right now,” only to find a better deal pretty shortly thereafter. I was in such a rush that I settled for a bad deal! This goes along with having saved up and done your homework, but if you don’t get “buyer fever,” you can recognize a deal for what it is, and get a good one when the time is right.

Remember the old adage, “Haste makes waste.” And in this case, what you’re wasting is money. 

Here’s the bottom line.

You can get almost anything you need and want if you’re willing to save, research, wait for a bargain, barter and trade. There are many options out there for you. So, go ahead and get more bang, boom and crash for your buck!

Happy shopping!

Gear Up: Getting the most bang, boom and crash for your buck!

Part 1 of 2.

When was the last time you made a significant purchase for your rig? I mean a purchase of at least $100 dollars. I know that for some of you $100 isn’t very much, but for me that’s a major purchase!

Today we’re going to take a look at how to keep your expenses down while you keep up your kit.

Have cash in hand.

This is good advice for buying virtually anything, but it’s especially important if you want to get a good deal on a major purchase. Put simply, money talks. Whether you’re buying new or used, make sure you actually have the ability to make the purchase before you start trying to make a deal. 

Cash also has a sort of magic to it when you’re bargaining, even in a retail establishment. You may find that you can get a better deal when the seller knows that you can pay now and that you’re prepared to walk away if it isn’t a good deal for both parties. (For more about saving and managing money, visit Dave Ramsey’s web page.)

For those of us who are fortunate enough to be making a few dollars playing music, I recommend that you set aside a certain amount (at least 15%) from each gig that will only be used on instruments or related equipment and supplies. If you’re consistent and committed to this, it shouldn’t take long before you’ll have a tidy little pile of cash so that you can make careful, relevant purchases when you need to.

A nice side benefit of having a little cash on hand is that you can take care of an emergency without having to forego paying the light bill. Just last fall I had a microphone die (my Beta 52, so it’s not like I could just go without), and I had the cash on hand to replace it with no hassle. I’ll have to put off that new snare drum for a little longer, but my mic dying could have also been a financial problem. It wasn’t.

Be realistic about your needs and priorities.

Unless you’re Terry Bozzio, you probably don’t need 24 chromatically tuned toms or 44 relative-pitch cymbals - and don’t even think about the gongs, my friends. You may have a dream kit on your mind, but you need to focus on the things that will have the most positive impact on you, your playing and your career right now. 

That being said, I have a long wish list, too, and a lot of it is totally unrelated to what I actually need. But at the top of my list are the things that will improve my sound, make me more versatile (and marketable), and will help me expand where, how often and with whom I’ll be able to play. 

So, while you may really want that shiny new quadruple bass drum pedal with matching soda dispenser, it may be more important to get a solid ride cymbal, hi-hat stand or snare drum. Establish your priorities, and always get the most important things first. 

Know the numbers.

I worked in a retail music store for several years. I was amazed by people who had (or have) absolutely no clue about price. This was especially true of younger players, beginners and their parents. What is the internet for if not for finding prices and values? Can you say “eBay?” 

As with saving up money in advance, you need to know what you can expect to pay for something so that you’ll know a good deal when you see one. It also helps to know the MSRP (manufacturer’s suggested retail price - you should NEVER pay this amount for anything!), the MAP (minimum advertised price, although not all brands/items have one), and the street price (average that you’ll pay for it new). 

If you’re buying used, even if something’s in perfect condition, you should never pay more than about 80% of the new street price. The only exception to this rule is if you can be sure that the warranty is still in effect and you get the original packaging and purchase receipt so that you can get help if you have a problem. Also, some manufacturers will only warranty the product to the original purchaser, meaning that the warranty is voided as soon as you buy it from a private individual.


More next week!