Bag of Tricks: Easiest linear funk grooves EVER

Creating fun and funky grooves doesn't have to be hard. If you're looking to get out of your groove rut, try these two easy linear grooves on for size. As always, start slow and work to get comfortable and play with a solid feel before you increase tempo.

Performance notes:

• Keep the bass drum nice and solid. Fat kick sound helps both of these patterns groove.
• Any unaccented notes in the hands should essentially be played as ghost notes.
• In the first example, count four is played as a buzzed snare drum stroke in the left hand, and an open hi-hat note in the right hand. Try to get both sounds to last until count one.

As I've stated before, it can be helpful to try playing these grooves with a variety of styles. If you can make them groove to Metallica, Keith Urban, Frank Sinatra, Bach and Enya, you can play them anywhere. 

Happy drumming!

Flexibility 101: Focus on the goal

Over the course of my career I don't think I've ever had a performance where everything went as expected. Each time, I have to make adjustments and remain flexible. No, I'm not talking about gymnastics or yoga. I'm talking about the ability to adjust to surprises, unexpected problems or opportunities while performing. I wrote a little bit about this concept here.

Let me illustrate with a (true) story.

A while back I mixed sound on one of the stages at a local arts festival. Summertime is a great time for bands to play more gigs and access new audiences by playing at fairs, festivals and celebrations, so most bands take their performance very seriously. This was the case with a teenage rock trio.

The lead singer for this band, a talented young woman, was also the drummer. She had great gear, tons of energy and an obvious passion for the music and for performing. The band came with the usual entourage of parents, relatives and friends to support their set. They also attracted quite a few passersby from among the festival attendees.

The stage and appointed audience area were small, so most of the sound reinforcement was for vocals and guitars, etc, and not for drums. While they were setting up, I mentioned to the drummer that I was going to have to mix the sound level based on drum volume, so, "Please just be aware of how loud you're playing."

Honestly, I hated saying it. It's been said so many times to me, and each time it sort of feels like an insult. I let her know that I'm a drummer, and I understood what I was asking, and that I'd do my best with the volume levels. When soundcheck started, I was a little concerned.

She was loud. Not Ted Nugent loud, but loud. So, up came the volume levels on everything else. After soundcheck, I (as gently as I could) reminded the drummer/singer that her volume needed to come down a little, and she gave me the you're-an-adult-so-I'll-nod-my-head-and-smile reaction. The set began, and I really, truly tried my best to make them sound great.

By the second song I had the festival director in my face.

"You've got to cut the volume by half, at least! NOW!" Apparently we were upsetting the poetry stage,  ruining the petting zoo and wreaking havoc on the GDP of several small African countries.

I reduced the volume levels to the point where the director seemed less likely to pop a vein in his head, and basically all that could be heard on stage was drums. After that song, every member of the band converged on me, asking what was wrong. I told them what had happened and, like true rockers, they said, "We don't care! We're a loud band. They can just deal with it. We need more sound!"

My first responsibility was to the festival, so I told them I would do the best I could, but they needed to make the best of it. To the drummer I said, "If you can play a little softer, I'll be able to get the sound evened out. But if I turn everything back up, the festival director will stop your set. If you want to finish, you need to play softer."

You would have thought I had just murdered her family by the look on her face. When she went back to the kit, everything in her body language said that she was bummed, to say the least. The fun, positive energy was gone, replaced by anger and disappointment. If anything, she played even louder than before.

Then came the inevitable stream of parents and well-meaning audience members to my mixing desk. Can't you just turn them up a little? I can't hear my guitar-playing son. You're ruining their performance! 

In my defense, I did turn the band back up, little by little. I never stopped tweaking, trying to get everything to sound as clean and clear, and as balanced as possible. But the band had checked out mentally. The rest of their set was not great, and the audience seemed to deflate before my very eyes. I am certain that the band felt like the performance was not good, and the audience was ultimately not very impressed. And I feel badly about it, because the band was very good.

But, I've been there. As I mentioned above, every single performance I've ever played has had weirdness, at least, and outright disaster at worst. And if you let those things affect your commitment to the music and to your audience, you're bound to have a bad gig.

It's tough, but you have to put the purpose of the performance first. You have to serve the music, your band mates, and the audience. You almost have to view yourself as a cog in the machine. I am absolutely not saying you can't have artistry and integrity, and that you are a doormat. But you do have a choice to continue to work toward your musical goals or to put your own pride and emotions first.

Sometimes there really is no flexibility - things have to be a certain way - but most situations can be worked out if everyone is on the same page about what the end goal is.

I've also blogged about this before, but the musicians who get the most work - and who have the best reputations - are not only great artists, but are also known as, "easy to work with." In short, they are flexible, and always keep a positive, accommodating attitude.

Lastly, try to remember that no gig is THE gig. Each one is a step toward a better, more flexible you, and each one is a learning experience. Try to view each challenge as an opportunity to practice handling that type of situation. You'll land on your feet.

As always, happy drumming!

V-Drums from a sound engineer's perspective

A few days ago I got a last-minute call to engineer front-of-house sound for a local band at a fairly high-level corporate event. Their drummer used the Roland TD-9 kit on this particular gig.

It's worth noting that the room was about about the size of half of a basketball court, with high ceilings and real wood paneling on all of the walls, and that the sound system consisted of Mackie's DL 1608 iPad-based mixer, and their DLM series powered speakers (more on the Mackie gear in another post). I was able to mix from all over the room with my iPad, so I got the full-range perspective on the band's - and each individual player's - sound.

Here are the bullet points:

• Individual drum and cymbal sounds were fine. In the context of the mix, they actually sounded a lot cleaner than many acoustic kits I've mixed. 
• I absolutely hated not being able to adjust the volume of the individual parts of the kit. During sound check I asked the drummer to manually turn up the kick drum on the TD-9's brain. That helped, but once the show started I basically had no way to deal with imbalances. 
• Likewise, any EQ, effects or other manipulations happen across the entire kit. You can't do anything to the snare drum (or kick, toms, etc.) without it affecting the entire kit. 
• We were able to quickly adjust the pitch of one of the toms - again, on the brain - to eliminate a sympathetic vibration without drastically affecting the overall sound of the drum and kit. This happened in seconds, rather than the several minutes (or longer) it would have taken to similarly adjust an acoustic drum. 

In the long run, I'm sure that a good engineer and drummer would be able to dial in the sound they need from a particular room very effectively, but the aforementioned frustrations kept me from feeling like I had achieved the best sound possible in the situation. 

As expected, the major benefit of the V-drums in this situation was the low stage/house volume. Especially for corporate and casual events, volume levels can be a very big problem. The drummer also effectively used many electronic sounds that would have been impossible on an acoustic kit. 

As technology improves, it will become more and more common for electronic percussion instruments to be integrated into all kinds of performances. I will continue to explore their application, benefits and drawbacks as the opportunities present themselves. 

Happy drumming!

Beyond the Kit: Survival on the road

I've been lucky during my career to have not spent too much time on the road. But even those short tours and relatively few nights on the road have taught me a thing or two about how to stay healthy and sane while away from home. Here are a few things I think will help. Please feel free to join the discussion by making a comment below.

While actually traveling, be mindful of the need to stop. There's always somebody who needs to take a restroom break, and everybody can use a few minutes to stretch, get fresh air, etc., so plan in a quick stop - even 10 minutes can do the trick - at least every 2-3 hours.

In addition, it's smart to have some agreements as to what's okay in the car/van/bus. This especially applies to food and drink, smoking, listening to music and watching movies. Also, even though it'll use more fuel, it's always more comfortable to travel in a larger vehicle.

For lodging, get the best place you can afford, and if possible, get a room for each person. Everybody will rest better in their own space. If you have to share a room, make some agreements before you get there. A smelly, noisy, annoying roommate will not only kill your sleep, but may lead to other problems in terms of band chemistry. Not kidding, a high priority should be placed on maintaining good relations, and you need to think about that before you room with somebody.

That being said, make sure you're a good roommate. If you have a an iPod/Pad, laptop, or other noisemaker, use headphones! Turn the TV off at a reasonable hour, don't hog the bathroom, don't make late night or long calls in the room, and just generally follow the golden rule*. It may seem overboard, but be overly courteous. Think about things like room temperature, your sleeping clothing (ahem...), who takes a shower first, when you get a wake-up call, and on and on.

Get some sleep. As much as possible, go to bed and get up at the same time you would at home. You'll be more tired on the road than you are at home, so make sure to get adequate sleep - 8 hours should do it - so that you don't compromise your preparation or performance due to fatigue.

Get a little exercise. If you normally work out at home, do the same thing on the road. You can get out and jog or walk, and most hotels have some sort of fitness room or a pool you can use to get your workout in. Even if you're not a regular exerciser, get out on a walk if you have the time. That can also help you to...

Take in the locale. Almost everywhere I've traveled to play a gig (outside my home state) has been a place that is new to me. Take some photos, visit a point of interest, catch a show (aside from the one you're playing!), and try the local cuisine. Speaking about food...

Eat smart. Just as you'll be more tired on the road, you'll also be prone to overeat. Enjoy your food by going slow and savoring each bite. Few things make performing more difficult than feeling sick, bloated or uncomfortable due to, uh, gastric distress. So be careful and prudent in your food choices. View it more as fuel than fun, and you'll be on your way.

Get some solo time in. No, not on stage! That's between you and your bandmates. But you should make sure you have at least some time on your own to think, relax, regroup and blow off steam. This, almost more than anything else, can keep you from losing your sanity and focus on the road.

Lastly, try to make your pre-show routine the same each night. Whatever it is you do before you play, do the same thing before each show. This includes load in, set up and soundcheck, and any warm ups you may do. No matter where you play, the stage should always feel like home. Take time to make sure it all feels good before you play.

This advice is, of course, the best case scenario. But if you can get most or all of this right, your tours and trips will be much more enjoyable and musically rewarding.

Happy traveling!

*For those who need a reminder, "Treat others as you would have them treat you."

How do I know I'm making progress?

I used to give my high school students a hard time when they would say somebody was a "good" musician, or a certain band was, "awesome." I'd ask how they determined if a certain musician or band was "good," and I'd get blank stares.

Honestly, most of us know when a player or group is "good," but we do we have concrete reasons to think so? Closer to home, how do we know when we are getting good ourselves?

Much has been written and discussed on this topic, but I'm going to try to boil it down to a few key indicators that you can look to when assessing your own playing and musicianship. Keep in mind that these are only a few of the ways you can tell if you're "getting better."

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Keep excellent time.

This means that everything you play - every groove, fill, chop, lick or kick - is in time with the metronome. You are able to play freely at the same time that you are a dependable time-keeper and can "groove" with the rest of the band or group.

Play within the texture.
Another way to say this is that you should almost be "invisible." Great musicians are great because they contribute to - and fit within - the sound of the band. If you ever stick out, it's either because you're the soloist, or you're playing something that doesn't fit.

Check out a recent recording (ideally a video) of yourself playing with a band. Do you do anything that detracts from the music or performance?


Develop consistent technique.
Do you have a good sound? Are your hands even? Are you comfortable playing the notes and music that you need to play to make good music? This isn't the most immediately gratifying part of being a musician, but you need to spend enough time practicing that performances are easy.

Make fewer mistakes. 
Not that you shouldn't push yourself and play past your boundaries from time to time, but you should be continually mastering the instrument, pulse, fills, grooves and music to the point that you can start to tell that you're playing more and more mistake-free.

Sound like a drummer.
Yes, eventually you should have your own sound, and that sound should be unique. But even then you should sound like you know what you're doing on in the instrument, within the style, and in any given moment. Again, check out a recording of yourself, and note the things you play that you like and that you don't like. You're a musician, you're familiar with drummers and you have ears.

We're all still learning to play, and as the old saying goes, "The good ones borrow, but the great ones steal." It is okay to play what your favorite drummers play, as long as you're using it as a tool to improve, and not a crutch to hide your weaknesses.

Play what you want to play.
Here's another old cliche: "Most people play whatever they can, but some play whatever they want."


I notice that as I practice and perform more - little by little - I'm able to be more expressive on the instrument. I get closer to executing what I'm hearing in my head. In other words, I can "say" what I want with the drums and music, instead of being limited by "vocabulary."

Imagine someone who is learning English as a second language. At first, they can only say a few things, and only one way. But as they gain fluency, they can not only say much more, but in different ways. Think of how many different choices you have when saying something as simple as a greeting, and you'll get the idea.

It's no different with music. This is why - without having to invent a new "language" - every person, every musician is different.



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Obviously, there are myriad ways to determine whether you're making progress as a musician. I offer these as a starting point. As you set your own goals and benchmarks, you'll begin to see which tactics produce results and which are a waste of time.

Share your best ideas below.

As always, happy drumming!

Beyond the Kit: Flexatone and Vibraslap

Time to highlight two lesser-known percussion goodies that deserve at least a little love.*

First up: flexatone. You can find a little history, a listing of compositions using flexatone, and some fantastic sound samples here.

While it is not used very frequently, the flexatone is one of the instruments for which there is really no suitable replacement.

Similarly, the vibraslap, while used much more frequently than flexatone, is not called for very much. Find some more information here.

As always, take some time to look into both of these instruments and see if there's a place for them in your bag of tools. If they can help you to be more expressive, creative and musical, you should get ahold of them soon!

Happy percussing!

*It can be frustrating as a percussionist or band director to try to acquire all of the little percussion "toys" that are called for, especially when you only use it once or twice. But when you've gotta have the sound, you've gotta have the sound.

Gear Up: Drumheads - Toms

Aaaaaaaalright! It's finally time for the last (for now) installment of our discussion on heads. We'll keep it super simple, short, and to the point.

For the batter head, you basically have a few choices.

• Single or double ply?
• Clear or coated?
• Pinstripes, oil-filled or other 'affects?'

And for the resonant side, the same choices basically apply. In general, you want a thinner, clearer head on the bottom than on the top.

Here are some great places to start surfing for new heads:

Remo

Evans

Aquarian

Attack

I currently own and play heads from all four of these companies. There are reasons to like and dislike all of them! There are some other makers, as well, but these are the most common. 

Your choices must be determined by two things: how you want to sound and where you're going to play. If you're playing jazz in a club, you're going to make very different choices than if you're making a heavy metal recording in the studio.

Just remember that the thicker the head, the more plies, the more - whatever - that's on/in/attached to the head, the shorter, punchier and more focused the sound. 

Also, how should the heads be tuned? You have some choices here, as well. 

• Tune both heads to the same pitch. Many jazz and bebop players take this route.
• Tune the batter lower than the resonant side. Good for rock, pop, country, etc.
• Tune the resonant side lower than the batter. Gives the lowest, "chunkiest" fundamental sound.

I tune all of my toms with the pitch of the resonant head a minor third* (a step and a half) higher than the batter head. This gives a decent amount of resonance, and a stable pitch center. They sound great live or under a mic. 

And I know I've written this many times, but remember that your drums will sound very different under a mic or out in the audience than you hear them from the driver's seat. Make sure to get a good, accurate soundcheck by listening to the playback or walking around the venue while someone else bangs the ol' skins. 

Don't be afraid to try new things, and whenever you hear something you like - find out what they're using and how they're getting the sounds. 

Good luck and happy drumming!

*Think of the first two notes of the melody of Brahms' "Lullabye" and you've got a minor third. 

Gear Up: Drumheads - Snare

There are many factors that contribute to each drummer's sound. A few weeks ago we talked about cymbals, which are a huge piece. Last week we talked about the ol' kick drum.

This week we'll talk about your choice of heads for the snare drum. Let's start with the batter head, or the head that you actually play - the top head.

What thickness options are there?
In terms of the actual construction of the head, there are basically two options - one ply or two. A ply refers to a sheet of plastic, usually mylar or kevlar, that the head is made out of. In general, a single ply head is a thin or medium thickness ply, while two plies are usually two thin. There are also some heads that are a single ply with a collar, or another ply around the edge, sort of splitting the difference between a single and double ply head.

So what's the difference in sound? Single plies tend to be more resonant (they ring longer) and have more overtones. Double ply heads tend to have less resonance (they ring shorter) and have a more focused tone.  Players who prefer one or the other usually swear by them for whatever reason.

But many players will prefer to use heads of different thicknesses in different situations. For me, I adjust the sound more by tuning than by choosing a different head. And if it needs a little bit of dampening, I use Moon Gel by R Tom. Love the stuff.

Why do heads look so different, and does it affect the sound?
Usually the appearance of a head is a function of it being either coated or clear. A coated head has literally been coated with a very thin layer of either textured or smooth white coating. The most common is the textured white, which allows for brush definition and "warms up" the sound. A clear head tends to sound "brighter."

Evans Drumheads has a head that has a similar feel to a coated head, but is called "etched." These heads have literally been blasted to create their texture. They don't have the extra weight and thickness of a coated head, and the texture tends to last longer. These heads are very popular in jazz settings.

You can also get heads with a "control dot" - basically a sticker that adds a ply in the center of the head, about six inches in diameter - on the top or, if it's on the underside of the head, called "reverse dot." Or you can get a head that's "vented," which means it has a row of very tiny holes around the edge of the head. The vents are an attempt to remove some of the highest overtones, or "dry out" the sound.

What about the snare side?
Keeping in mind that the snare side head can have just as much effect on the snare drum's sound, we're only talking about your drum kit snare. We'll have to save all those scintillating conversations about concert, rudimental, field and side drums for another time.

The snare side is usually the thinnest head on your kit, and also the most delicate. Since this head is the activator for your snares, the thicker the head, the tighter it has to be tuned. A lot of your snare sound, in terms of tone, snare sensitivity and "crack" will depend on the whole package - heads, shells, hoops, reinforcement rings, tuning, relative tension between the heads and the alignment of the stars.

Ya Gotta Try!
So what will you use, and why? The end goal should be your sound. What are you trying to achieve? Depending on the style you play, the setting (live or recording) and the volume at which you play, the tone you want, etc, your head choices may differ very widely from other drummers. So don't worry quite so much about what's popular or what they look like. Let the music guide your choices, and play what you like.

Here's my last bit of advice when deciding which heads to use:

Listen, listen, listen.

Remember that what you hear on recordings - and even through live sound systems - doesn't perfectly resemble what you hear with just your ears when you're sitting at the kit. The more you experiment, tune, record and listen, the more you'll get an ear for what you're hearing - and how it sounds to the audience, through the PA, or on playback.

Happy drumming!

Gear Up: Drumheads - Kick Drum

Disclaimer: A lot of what you'll read in my posts about drumheads is largely my opinion. I do not consider myself an expert, but have had a lot of time to experiment and hang with people who know how to make drums sound great. So if you think I'm wrong or missing the point, let me know in the comments!

First things first: you're going to hear this a lot from me as we discuss how to get great drum sounds, but don't underestimate how much processing a natural drum or cymbal sound goes through to come out of your speakers or headphones. You might think of it as raw metal ore going through the processes to become a car. That being said, you must start with great "raw" sounds to get great results. 

The kick drum is the heart of your kit - and your sound. If you have a great kick sound, you're well on your way to sounding great and feeling comfortable.

There's quite a lot we could talk about regarding the dimensions and material of the shell, and how many lugs and other attachments it has, but that's a discussion for another time. For now we'll focus on two basic differentiators in heads, number of plies, and finish of the head - oh, and muffling, for good measure.

How many plies? 
A ply is a single layer of plastic - usually mylar. There are different thicknesses of plies, usually a thin and medium. If you want a really thick head, you're usually going to get two plies. In addition, you can get a single ply head with an extra ring around the edge, so you end up with two plies around the edges to dampen some overtones, but a single ply in the middle. In addition, there are numerous additions to heads like pinstripes, but we'll talk about that in a second.

So what's the difference in sound? For kick drum, you probably have different sound goals depending on what you play. A two-ply head will give you a shorter sustain, darker tone and more "punch." A single-ply gives you longer sustain, brighter sound and more tone.

Here are a couple of generalizations: Single ply is for jazz and recording. Double ply is for rock and live sound. Good luck with that.

Coated or clear? 
Essentially, the more you add to a head, the less overtones you get, the less resonance you get, etc. So what gets added to a head (besides plies)? First is a coating. Coated heads provide a warmer tone, less crisp attack, and the texture makes brush playing possible on snare and tom heads. I guess you can play brushes on the kick, too!

Aside from coating, all manner of strips, stripes, dots and etchings have been tried to create a certain tone, response or playability. Luckily, you' don't have to try absolutely every head to figure it out. Most of the head manufacturers have a chart that will guide you to the kind of head you should try based on the sound you're looking for.

I also recommend some sort of patch for the kick head right where the beater contacts it. No matter how softly you play, you'll want to reinforce that spot so that the head lasts longer. The effect on tone can be an issue, but you can usually get what you want with tuning and choosing the right beater.

Alright, this is getting long. More on heads next week! Let's continue the discussion in the comments below.

Prologue to Drumheads

Over the next several weeks I'll be talking about how drumheads affect your sound, and giving some basic advice on how to choose heads. We'll talk about what the differences in heads mean to your sound and the playability of your kit.

There are more choices all the time, from time-tested classics to heads for very specific applications. If you know what you're looking for - and at - you'll have a better chance at sounding like you want to. 

Before we start, though, two quick stories to set the stage. 

Lesson with Adam Nussbaum


I once had the opportunity to take a lesson from drumming great Adam Nussbaum. It was extremely worthwhile. Among other things, he talked a lot about being able to "trust" each sound in your kit so that you don't overplay. His thought was that the less you had full, resonant sounds, the more notes you felt like you had to play. I agree. Each sound in your kit should be something you absolutely love and can use with confidence. There should be no sounds that you avoid using.

Let's call them "Jupiter Music" just for fun!*

When I first decided to get serious about drumming, I knew my sounds were bad but I knew almost nothing about tuning, and even less about drumheads. I had a 22" Tama Rockstar kick, and I had picked up two Remo Renaissance heads on clearance. I was thrilled to have new heads, but absolutely hated my new sound. It seemed really pingy to me, and didn't have the low fundamental and punch I was looking for.

So I went into one of the big-box music stores (it's a chain that no longer exists, but will still remain nameless) and asked the "drum guy" about heads and what I could do to help my sound. His answer was classic, "Y'know, man, a bass drum head is a bass drum head. They're pretty much all the same, so the sound you're looking for is what the sound engineer is for."

I knew that answer wasn't right, so I was pretty frustrated. Luckily for me, Backbeats Drum & Backline opened shortly after that, and Kelly Wallis set me straight and got my kick sound rockin'. He put two Remo Powerstroke 3s on my kick drum, helped me set up some basic muffling, and explained to me how tuning effects the sound, and also had me listen to my drum from (literally) inside the drum, from the playing position, and from across the room. (I had never thought about the fact that the sound might be heard differently depending on where you heard if from and how far away you were.)

Needless to say, it was the beginning of my journey to better sounds - and much more satisfying playing.   


So, let's get started. On Monday, we'll talk about bass drum heads and get the heart of your kit sounding great.

Update 2-19-2012: The store was the now-defunct Mars Music. I was trying to hint at that and actually named an existing music company. My bad. The actual Jupiter Music has a great reputation, and I wasn't attempting to make any derogatory comments about them, at all. 

Gear Up: Microphones Part 2

Last week, I mentioned a few suggestions on some microphones to get started with for drums.

This week, where in the world do you place them? What will get the best and most consistent sound?

First, don't reinvent the wheel. Whenever you work with a good sound tech, watch what they do, and ask them questions (nicely, at appropriate times, and respectfully, of course) about why they do it the way they do. Listen and learn. There are also myriad websites that have very clear, complete information.

I'm definitely not a sound engineer, but there are a few really simple concepts that I have used for years that have produced good, consistent results. Again, there are a lot of factors at play here, including your drums/heads, tuning, the size and shape of the room, how loud you play, other sound sources on the stage, etc*.

One semi-funny story: Back in the day, I played with a band called Hillside Nine. We got a gig playing at a high school for a huge senior party. Lots of fun. After sound check the engineer asked if there was anything else we needed, and I jokingly said, "Just make us sound amazing, okay?" He replied without missing a beat, "Ah, okay. I'll turn the 'Talent' knob all the way up, and the 'Suck' switch completely off. Will that work?"

Oh, if only it were that simple! Anyway, on to the good stuff.

Snare and Toms
Line up the end of the microphone (the end where it captures the sound - it usually has a screen) with the hoop/rim of the drum, at least an inch above the hoop - mine are about 2-3" up - and angle the mic at the dead center of the drum. The microphone will end up at about a 30ish degree angle up from the plane of the drum head. Try it out. You'll like it!

Kick Drum
My drum's resonant (front) head is ported. That means it has a five inch hole cut in the head, at about the 4 o'clock position. I have had good results putting the mic through the port, with the end of the mic (again, the screen/capture side) about three inches inside the drum, pointed at the dead center of the batter head. If your kick drum doesn't have a front head (or if you've removed it for recording), move the mic to about the halfway point of the shell, right in the middle, and point it at the center of the resonant head.

Overhead/Cymbals
I like to use two identical mics to capture the cymbals and full kit sound. One mic sits over my left hand area, pointed at the place where my left side crash overlaps my hi-hat. The right side hangs over my ride cymbal where it hangs over my floor tom. Both are just above head level, out of range of an errant stick stroke.

Especially if you're using mics a lot, and even more especially in a recording setting, it's worth experimenting with different placements - angles, heights, alignments and how far over the drum it sits.

Happy drumming!


*Okay, one MAJOR tip: the best mics, sound engineer and placement won't make your drums sound good if they don't already. Before you go to the gig, make sure that your instrument is in good working order - heads in good shape, and well tuned. This will have the BIGGEST impact on how good you sound. That, and the P word: PRACTICE!!

Gear Up: Drum Dial

I'm having a serious conundrum. To Drum Dial or not to Drum Dial?

The Drum Dial is a relatively simple tool (similar to a durometer) that measures the tension of a drumhead. You use it by placing it on the drumhead next to each tension rod, relatively close to the hoop.

In theory, when you get the tension exactly the same around the entire head, it's in tune. Of course, you have to take into account the type of drum, its depth, the type of heads, and the relationship of the heads to each other (resonant to batter).

Drum tuning purists (yep, there really are such people - including me, to a degree) argue that tools like the Drum Dial are "cheating," for lack of a better term. They say that you should be able to tune your drums yourself, by ear. And if you can't, well, then you don't deserve to sound good. And I know plenty of skilled drummers who have never learned to tune their own drums. They play great, but sound awful.


I mean, hey, if Peter Erskine* uses it, it can't be all bad, right?

My DW Kit

About six months ago I put all new batter heads on my DW drum kit. As an experiment, I used the Drum Dial on all of the heads, both sides. Also, I used the recommended tensions from the Drum Dial web site.  I was pretty happy with the results in my studio, but I needed to get out on a gig with them, so I took them to the very next show I had.

I got an interesting reaction from the bass player on the gig (Ryan Tilby). While we were sound checking, he turned to me and said, "Wow. That sounds exactly like a backline kit."**

Truth be told, the heads required quite a bit of fine tuning after using the Drum Dial. Just having the dial read the same number at each lug wasn't enough to get the head to sound "clear" (without waves or beats) and open. That part had to be done by ear. But the dial did drastically speed up the process of getting the drumheads to the fine tuning phase.

To me, I think that's the answer. The tools we have are still only tools, so the actual work of getting your drums to sound the way you want them to is still up to you. It's like fixing cars. Sure, we have power tools, hydraulic equipment and sophisticated computers, but the work is still in the hands of the mechanic.

The Drum Dial, and tools like it, are just a part of your arsenal to achieve great sounding drums.

That being said, I'd love to have a spreadsheet of every drummer in the world that showed which drum they're using, what heads, and at what tension. Then I could sound like anybody I want. Does that seem like giving up too many trade secrets?

What do you think?

As always, happy drumming!

*If you don't know who Peter Erskine is or aren't familiar with his work, click his name above. He has been a huge, positive influence on many a drummer, including me.


**A backline kit refers to a rented drum set that is tuned in a very standard, generic way. The drums will sound good, but usually not distinctive. It is left up to the drummer or tech to individualize the sounds to the specific style or venue.